19 August 2012


4 August - Capan, Honduras – Chiquimula, Guatemala - 65km

It was a short ride to the border where we crossed without any problems. Two mountain ranges run from west to east, dividing the country into three major regions. No doubt it is going to be very mountainous. We cycled along hilly valleys with dramatic scenery, which sounds easier than what it was.

We were now heading for Petén; a sparsely populated area and home to Tikal, one of the largest archaeological sites of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization. It is still extremely hot and humid -making for rather slow going.

Along the way Ernest found that his front rim was broken and nursed the bike along to the first town we got to. Off to the bike shop he went in search of a new rim, and spent the rest of the afternoon spokeing it. After all that work he found that he did not have enough of the right length spokes to do the whole wheel. Nothing to do but undo the whole lot and use the spare rim he has been carrying with him.

We stayed the following day as well so Ernest could fix his bike.

6 August - Chiquimula – Rio Hondu - 36km
We headed off and after about 25km reached the small village of Estanzuela. To our surprise we found an interesting museum holding dinosaur bones and bones from a prehistoric whale from some 30 000 years ago. Quite amazing. Ernest still had to sort out his rim, which was not completely round and as soon as we reached Rio Hondu we found a hotel with rooms around a courtyard where he could work on the bike and where we could spent the rest of the day watching the Olympics.

7 August - Rio Hondu – Quirigua - 65 km
It was a fairly short ride today, but it was rather slow due to a puncture (Ernest) and broken brake cable (me). We cycled along the river in a beautiful valley for most of the day, with the green mountains towering alongsidemaking for a very scenic ride. However, this “Carretera Atlantico” is the main road between the capital and the coast. It is a very busy road, with 18-wheelers bearing down on us like bats out of hell. I tried to stick as close to the side of the road as possible but it was still nerve wrecking as the shoulder is often broken or obstructed.

This is an interesting part of Guatemala, and each day we seem to discover something new. Yesterday it was the dinosaurs and today we reached Quirigua where there is yet another Maya Archaeological site (which we plan to explore tomorrow). This also appears to be cowboy country where guns, big hats and leather boots are worn and sold everywhere.

8 August - Quirigua
We spent the morning at the Quirigua Archaeological site, well-known for its huge statues or stelae (I´m getting ever so clever with these names). The large stone is 10.5 meters tall and is the largest Maya stela known. The stelae are housed under thatched-roof structures to protect them from further deterioration from the elements. It is therefore difficult to get a good photograph. On our walk back to the village we took the shortcut through the banana plantations and past the old railways station. Now only a dilapidated building and a few old rail coaches, it was still fun looking around. Back at the hotel the lady was kind enough to do our laundry for us (high time as well).

9/10 August - Quirigua – Rio Dulce – 74km
It was a fairly easy ride to Rio Dulce past some lowlands and ranchos. We reached pretty Rio Dulce on Lago de Izabal and we were surprised to see many gringos, the most we have seen in a long time; the reason being that it is a popular safe harbour for yachters. We found a cheap room and decided to stay the following day to explore the region.

The following day we took a walk to the nearby castle, the El Castillo de San Felipe. It was a short and nice walk and the castle was interesting. Castles are always nice to visit as there are normally more than enough nooks and crannies to explore. The castle was built to keep pirates from looting the villages on Lake Izabel, and although it worked for a while, the pirates soon captured the castle and burnt it down. The castle was however rebuilt and used as a prison for a while.

11 August - Rio Dulce –San Luis - 90km
It was a difficult day on the road, both hot and very mountainous. We pushed on the best we could, stopping ever so often to fill our water bottles. We entered the hot jungle province of El Peten. The jungle unfortunately seems to be fast disappearing as more and more land is cleared for the planting of oil palms or ranches.

12/13 August - San Luis – Santa Helena – Flores - 120km
Early morning we set off up more hills but fortunately the road levelled off a bit after Poptum. We reached Santa Helena in the afternoon and opted to stay in Flores. We arrived in Flores just as the sun was setting over Lago De Peten Itza on a hot and humid day. Flores is a stamp size little island, just off the mainland and is connected to the shore via a short (barely 500m) causeway. We easily found a room as the little island is jam-packed with hotels, hostels and restaurants. Our room was spacious and even had a little balcony overlooking the lake.

Ernest was not feeling well and seemed to have come down with his strange recurring illness which he picked up in Borneo. He stayed in bed the following day while I wondered around the narrow cobbled streets of Flores. At sunset I took a short boat ride on the lake, just to see the island from another angle.

15 August - Flores – Tikal - 67km
We finally left Flores and headed in the direction of Tikal, the famous Mayan Ruins. Needless to say it was hot and hilly (part of the course around here). What makes Tikal unique is that it is truly situated in the jungle. The park measures 550sq km, with the ruins somewhere in the middle of that jungle. From the park entrance we still cycled for another 17km through the lush and dense tropical jungle before we reached the camp site at the ruins. Along the way saw warning signs for snakes, jaguars, and other animals, and we wondered if our camping plan was such a good idea. The park houses a large number and variety of wildlife, so it was a noisy night with howler monkeys and raucous birds.

16/17 August - Tikal – Le Remate - 34km
At 6 am that morning we walked into the site of the ruins as soon as the gates opened. It was a misty morning and rather magical to walk through the forest without a soul in sight. The iconic Gran Plaza, with its towering pyramids, was half hidden in the fog, giving it a ghostly appeal. Some of the temples have wooden staircases, which allow one to climb up to the top for a view of the other structures soaring above the treetops.

Once we had seen all we wanted we headed back to our tents, packed up and cycled back to Le Remate. Le Remate is situated on the lake and is a cool place to have a swim and relax. The following day Ernest updated his blog and I took the bus into Santa Helena to withdraw some money and do a bit of shopping.

18 August - Le Remate  - Melchor de Mencos - 69km

Up and down the hills we went in the direction of Belize. Fortunately the road was paved for most of the way, as the small sections which were not, were true dust bowls as trucks came roaring past in clouds of dust. We soon reached the tiny border town of Melchor de Mencos, and as Ernest was still not feeling well, we stayed for the night. We found a comfortable room, did some shopping and relaxed out of the heat for the rest of the day.

05 August 2012


9/10 July - Ocotal – Danli - 57km

It was a slow and steady climb up to Las Manos and the Nicaraguan/Honduras border. After we crossed the border it was an easy downhill ride to the first town in Honduras. Danli was a fairly small but lively town with a good number of cigar factories. I did not feel well due to a chest infection, so we stayed another day. It was rather boring just lying around doing nothing, but I thought it a good idea not to cycle as I did not expect to have any easy riding in Honduras.  Honduras is quite a mountainous little country and there appeared very few flat sections.
11 July - Danli – Zamporano - 65km
As expected the road slowly crept up the mountain for about 20 km after which we descended into a valley of sorts. Once we cleared the valley it was up yet another mountain pass. By the time we reached Zamporano we decided to stay there for the night and tackle the next climb in the morning. We found quite an interesting room (a bit expensive but a type of resort or hotel school) and quite luxurious. It even had hot water so we showered for hours, washed our hair and enjoyed the luxury for the night.
12/13 July - Zamporano –Tegucigalpa - 37 km
It was a short but, once again, very hilly ride over the mountain. Tegucigalpa (teh-goos-ee-gal-pa) is situated in a valley at an altitude of 975m. So once over the mountain it was mostly downhill into the city centre. As is the case with most Central American cities the centre of Tegucigalpa consists of a central plaza and church. Although it is the capital, it is not much of a touristy place, and one feels a bit out of place. We had no idea where to go so we hauled out the old Lonely Planet to get an idea of where to go.
The central plaza was a rather busy and interesting place with loads of down-and-outs, street performers or what is often called “human statues”. I can watch them for hours as I think it quite impossible to stand that still for such a long time.
The city is not known for its safety and many traders prefer to trade behind bars, not something that inspires confidence!  We did the necessary laundry, shopping and internet and was soon ready to move on again.
Not only is the city dangerous, safety wise, I also understand that the capital's international airport, Toncontín, is notorious around the world for its extremely short runway for an international airport and the unusual maneuvers pilots must undertake upon landing or taking off to avoid the nearby mountains.
Besides the main Cathedral there was one more interesting old church, the Iglesia Los Dolores. One of its most interesting features is the main facade. It is in Baroque style, with a central and two lateral towers. It is decorated with glazed terracotta sculptures and figures representing the Passion of Christ - his unseamed cloak and the cock that crowed three times - all crowned by the more indigenous symbol of the sun.

14 July - Tegucigalpa – Valle De Angles - 33km
A clean shaven Ernest and I set off up the mountain and as expected it was a steady climb (and rather steep) up the valley. We stopped ever so often to fill our water bottles and after 33 km we arrived in a small but interesting village by the name of Valle De Angles. A former colonial mining town with old restored buildings, it looked so interesting we turned in to look around a bit. The village was quite lively and seemed a place where city folk come to spend the weekend. We followed suite and stayed for the night. Ernest rightly remarked that it’s most probably called Valle De Angles as one needs wings to get out of there again.
15 July - Valle De Angles – Gauimaca - 73km
We awoke to the sound of macaws and green parrots, not a bad way to wake up. There was nothing to do but set off over the mountains again. We climbed steeply over the hills, at times doubting whether it was a good idea to have come this way. Again we descended down into a valley and then climbed up and over the mountains. I realised that we were way off the beaten track, as we hardly encountered any traffic, just the odd horse or bus. The paved road came to a surprising halt and we battled along a dusty and rutted road until we reached the junction town of Talanga. Talanga was a bit of a Wild West town with an ancient central plaza and dirt roads, and the stretch of paved road coming into town was being used for drag racing (police were the time keepers at the finish!). The road was not even blocked off, and we had cars racing towards us like bats out of hell! 
We continued on up and over another set of mountains until we reached Gauimaca where we found a simple roadside room. The room was so cheap that we booked in there, instead of camping.
16 July - Gauimaca – Juticalpa - 86km
The weather did not look too good as we awoke to a drizzle, but fortunately it cleared up and by the time we left it was overcast but not raining. Just outside town the paved road once again came to an end, but just as inexplicably it fortunately reappeared later. That was to set the trend for the day. The road went from bad gravel to perfectly smooth concrete, and then back to no surface again. Fortunately the pine-forested hills were not as steep as the previous days! That is not to say that there were no hills!! 
We arrived in Juticalpa and first looked for a bank. No bank wanted to dispense any cash and I was worried that the card may be damaged. In addition, Ernest could not draw any money as he had lost his card. In the end we had to settle for a rather expensive hotel where I could pay by credit card.
We understood from the locals that the road to the coast was a dirt road and very steep in places. It was not very reassuring that they also indicated it to be very dangerous…..indicated by pulling an imaginary gun and pointing two fingers to the temples. Apparently it is an area well known for drug trafficking, but somehow I don’t think drug traffickers will bother with us.
After all this happy news we took a walk to the supermarket and found an ATM that was prepared to spit out some money. We stocked up on food as there appears to be very little along this lonely and sparsely populated, 300 km stretch of road to the coast.
17 July - Juticalpa –roadside camp - 43km
Shortly after leaving Juticalpa we turned left at a heavily guarded turn-off. The road immediately started to climb up the mountains and after 20km we reached our first village where we filled up with water. The road slowly deteriorated and we struggled along a narrow dirt road higher and higher up the mountain. We climbed and we climbed and we slipped and we slided but still there was no end to the hills. Once we spotted a half-built structure and we asked permission to sleep there for the night. The owner had a house lower down the valley and was in the process of building a new one next to the road. It must be a slow process. It suited us just fine as we could camp out of sight of passing vehicles and had running water. No sooner had we pitched our tents and curious locals came to look at us, some peeping shyly around corners and others just staring expressionless, mothers brought their babies so they could have a look at the strange looking foreigners. Eventually it got dark and they headed home leaving us to our own devices.
18 July - Roadside camp – San Esteban - 64km
We continued to crawl up steep hills, no faster than walking pace, and then got completely bogged down in clay, eventually coming to a complete standstill. It became quite impossible to even push the bike any further as the wheels became jammed in the frame. I tried dragging it but kept on sliding backwards down the hill and in the process my feet got stuck and I broke my sandals (the only shoes I have). Fortunately nothing lasts forever, and after a kilometre or two the clay gave way to more manageable mud. At last we rounded a corner and could see a large valley down below. The road mostly headed downhill and along the valley to the small village of San Esteban. We found ourselves a room, had a shower and washed most of the mud of the bikes.
19 July - San Esteban – Village - 72km
Uphill for about 20 km out of town we seemed to have reached the high point as the road headed steadily downhill. The going was however incredibly slow as the road resembled a dry riverbed more than a road. Stones, sand and deep ruts made the going very slow, the traffic we encountered along the way made no faster headway than us. This is a rarely visited area and we passed small indigenous communities where taking out a camera made kids run for their lives!!   In fact you don’t even have to take out a camera, just spotting us made them run for cover. We continued down the road at a snails’ pace and at sunset we decided to set up camp next to the road.
20 July - Unknown village – Saba - 80km
We were definitely out of the mountains and after a short cycle the road spat us out at the coastal lowlands amidst oil-palm and banana plantations. We were back in the hot and humid tropical region of Honduras. Finally we were back on a paved road; not only was it paved it was also flat!!   How quickly things change. We reached Saba early but decided to stay there for the night and tackle the last 80km to the coast the following day.
21 July - Saba – La Ceiba - 83km
La Ceiba is located on the Caribbean coast and is surrounded by lush jungles, mountains, large rivers, and sandy beaches. It was therefore not surprising that we had to climb yet another mountain before finally arriving at the coast. It was Saturday afternoon and the streets were hectic with cars and busses. We weaved through the traffic to the city centre, found ourselves a room and I was more than happy to flop down on a bed and watch TV.
22 July - La Ceiba
It was Sunday and the city centre was dead quiet. We wondered down to the beach, had lunch and spent the rest of the day chilling out, doing very little except for some much needed laundry. Seeing that we were at the coast we decided to take the ferry the following day to the nearby Bay Islands. The island of Roatan is well known for diving, be it snorkeling or scuba diving.
23 July -La Ceiba – Roatan - 27km
We packed up and cycled the short 7km to the harbour where we found a large ferry ready to take us to the islands. The islands are located about 50km off the coast and after about an hour and a half we were dropped at Dickson´s Cove. From Dickson´s Cove we cycled about 20km to West End where there were plenty of accommodation, a few small shops and a lovely bay with crystal clear water.
Accommodation was quite expensive but Ernest set off on foot in search of something more reasonable. He came back with good news as he found a nice room with a shared kitchen, veranda and hammock. The room resembled a house as the kitchen was well equipped with microwave, stove, toaster, coffee-maker, pots and pans. Three rooms led off the kitchen and Miriam and Doris (from Austria) were two pleasant people to share the house with.
Roatán is the largest of Honduras' Bay Islands. It´s approximately 50 kilometres long and less than 8 kilometres across at its widest point. The islands are surrounded by the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the largest barrier reef in the Caribbean Sea (second largest worldwide after Australia's Great Barrier Reef).
The islands have an interesting history. The English occupied the Bay Islands on and off between 1550 and 1700.  During this time, buccaneers used the islands as a safe harbour and transport. English, French and Dutch pirates established settlements on the islands. They frequently raided Spanish cargo vessels carrying gold and other treasures, which the Spanish in turn stole from the locals. At one time, it was estimated that over 5,000 pirates lived on Roatan.
24/25 July - Roatan
I set off to the local dive shop, determined to do at least one scuba dive. Unfortunately they could only do it the following day so I rented some snorkeling gear. I snorkeled until my hands and feet were completely wrinkled. The water is not only warm but crystal clear and the reefs are close enough that one can snorkel from the beach. I don’t think I had ever seen so much life and colour underwater; it was plain amazing.
The following day Ernest and I took a walk to West Bay, a half hour walk along the beach. If at all possible, the beach at West Bay was even whiter and the ocean even bluer!! We snorkeled and spent most of the day on the beach.
26 July - Roatan – Dickson´s Cove – La Ceiba - 33km
It was unfortunately time to back up and go back to the mainland. We cycled back to Dickson´s Cove where we got the 14h00 ferry to La Ceiba. Once in La Ceiba we went straight back to our previous hotel, which was centrally located in the centre of town and close to the supermarket.
27 - 28 July - La Ceiba – Tela - 103km
It was an easy ride to Tela, and although it was extremely hot, at least the road was fairly flat. We ambled along and reached Tela in good time. We found a good room at Bertha´s and Ernest immediately set off to the supermarket to find ingredients for a salad. He came up the most awesome salad one can imagine. It had just about everything in it that one can imagine, from olives to boiled eggs and avocadoes, all on a bed of lettuce.  What a life!!
Tela is a small but busy and interesting Honduran town with a lovely beach stretching for quite a few kilometres both east and west of the town. The centre of town was a hive of activity with narrow and busy streets, a lively market and hectic traffic. I strangely felt quite at home. A short walk down the beach brought us to La Ensenada - a small indigenous village where kids played carefree in puddles and rustic restaurants served fresh seafood right on the beach. Colourful fishing boats on the beach completed the picture.
29 - 30 July - Tela – San Pedro - 98km
Not a bad day on the road, the road was good and not to hilly. San Pedro is a rather large city; fortunately it was Sunday and the roads quiet. We found a nice room, Ernest cooked some pasta and soon it was bed time.
31 July - San Pedro – Quimistan - 63km
After our morning cuppa, which was free, we headed up the Western mountains of Honduras. We were back in the mountainous regions of Honduras (en route to Guatemala). We slowly headed up the valley which looked very fertile, judging by the amount of fruit stalls along the way.  Along the way we found a bamboo pipe, squirting out cool, crystal clear water. Perfect thing on a hot and humid day!!  We arrived around midday at the small village of Quimistan, found a room with a TV and watched the Olympics for the rest of the day.
1 August - Quimistan –La Entrada - 55km
It was a short but hot and hilly ride to La Entrada where we arrived fairly early, found a hotel (with TV) and watched the Olympics for the rest of the day. Not that there was much else to do in La Entrada, it’s a hot and dusty crossroads town with hectic traffic and busses zooting off in all directions.
2/3 August – La Entrada – Copan Ruinas - 65Km
We had a rather interesting day. Although it was once again very mountainous it was a beautiful stretch of road with coffee plantations next to the road. We soon spotted one of the famous Copan coffee farms and popped in for a cup of high grown coffee.
10km from the Guatemalan border we reached the beautiful and tranquil village of Copan Ruinas, famous for the nearby Maya ruins. We soon found a room as just about every second building appears to be some sort of hotel/hostel.

I was up early as the gates to the Archaeological site opened at 8h00. This was my first visit to Maya ruins, so I went a bit overboard, taking loads of photos.  Although not the most impressive of Maya ruins, it is said to be one of the most important, dating back to AD250 – 900. Today the site is situated in a beautiful park. Archaeologists are still hard at work discovering more and more structures. I quite like the names of the early kings, Great Sun Lord, Waterlily Jaguar, Moon Jaguar, Smoke Jaguar, etc. Archaeologists are still working out what happened to the Maya at the end of the classic period and what caused the collapse and abandonment of so many cities. The best evidence at present, points to a series of droughts around the 8th century.